How to find the septic tank on your property
Start with the paperwork: your county or state health department often has a permit drawing that shows where the tank is. If there's no record, find where the main sewer line leaves the house and follow its direction outward, usually 10 to 25 feet. Then look for clues in the yard or probe gently.
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Why it's worth finding your tank
You need access to the tank for pumping and inspections, and knowing where it is keeps you from building a deck, planting a tree, or parking a vehicle on top of it. If you pay a septic company to dig and search, the bill goes up. Finding it yourself, or with records, saves time on every future visit.
Step 1: Check permits and property records
Most septic systems installed in the last few decades required a permit, and many permits include a drawing (often called an as-built or site plan) that shows the tank and drain field with distances from the house.
- County or state health department or environmental health office: ask for the septic permit file for your address.
- Home inspection or septic inspection reports from when you bought the house.
- The previous owner or neighbors with similar homes. Builders often put tanks in the same spot on each lot.
- Past pumping receipts: some companies note the location.
Step 2: Find where the sewer line leaves the house
Go to the basement or crawlspace, or the lowest level of the house, and look for the main drain, usually a 3- or 4-inch pipe that all the other drains connect to. Note which wall it goes through. On a slab house, look for a cleanout cap near the foundation outside, or near where the bathrooms are.
The tank is almost always in line with where that pipe exits, typically somewhere around 10 to 25 feet out. Codes set a minimum distance from the foundation, and the line needs to slope down toward the tank, so it is rarely right against the house.
Step 3: Look for clues in the yard
- A plastic or concrete lid, or a riser, at ground level
- A slight rectangular depression or mound
- Patches where grass grows differently, greener or browner, or where snow melts first
- A pipe sticking up (an inspection port or vent)
- A control panel or alarm box on a post, which usually means a pump tank is nearby
Step 4: Probe carefully
If you know the general direction, you can use a thin metal soil probe, pushed in gently every couple of feet along the line from the house. When you hit a flat, solid surface at a consistent depth over an area, you may have found the lid or top of the tank.
Before you probe or dig: Call 811 a few business days ahead so utility lines are marked. It's free in the US. Probe gently, because some plastic and fiberglass lids are easy to damage, and never probe near a marked gas or electric line.
Step 5: Dig to the lid, or call a pro
Once you find the edges, dig carefully to expose the lid. Most residential tanks have one or two main lids, one over the inlet and one over the outlet, and some have a center access. Don't try to lift heavy concrete lids yourself; they can weigh well over 100 pounds and a slip can be dangerous.
If you can't find the tank, a septic company can locate it. Common methods include:
- Flushable transmitters: a small radio transmitter is flushed down the toilet and tracked from above
- Sewer camera with a locating sonde: a camera pushed down the line shows the route and depth
- Experienced probing based on how systems were typically installed in the area
Safety: Never enter a septic tank or lean into an open one. Tanks contain gases such as hydrogen sulfide and methane that can overcome a person in seconds, and an unsecured lid can collapse. Keep children and pets away from open or damaged lids and leave tank work to licensed septic professionals.
After you find it: mark it and add risers
Measure the distance from two fixed points, such as house corners, to each lid and write it down with a sketch. Take a photo. Then consider adding risers so the lids sit at ground level. Risers save the cost of digging every time the tank is pumped. Our guide to concrete septic tanks, lids, and risers covers the options, including how to cover a septic tank riser safely.
While the lid is exposed, it's a good time to schedule pumping if it's been a while. See how often to pump a septic tank.
Don't forget the drain field
The drain field is usually downhill from the tank and can cover a large area. Knowing roughly where it is matters just as much: keep vehicles, livestock, pools, sheds, and trees off it, and send downspouts and sump discharge elsewhere.
Frequently asked questions
How deep is a septic tank usually buried?
Lids are commonly somewhere between a few inches and a few feet below the surface, depending on the site, the slope of the sewer line, and the climate. Risers bring the access up to ground level.
Can a septic company find my tank?
Yes. Many septic companies offer locating as a service. They may use a probe, a camera run down the sewer line, or an electronic transmitter that shows where the line and tank are from above ground.
Is there a septic tank under my driveway?
It's possible, especially on older properties, but tanks are not supposed to be under driveways because vehicle weight can crack them. If records show the tank under a driveway or patio, have a pro check its condition.